Trsteno Arboretum is a historic Renaissance garden and arboretum located on the Dalmatian coast, about 20 km northwest of Dubrovnik. Established in the late 15th century by the noble Gučetić (Gozze) family as part of their summer estate, Trsteno Arboretum is often cited as the oldest arboretum in this part of the world. It spreads over about 25 hectares of terraces and hillside, famed for its ancient giant plane trees, baroque fountain, and stunning vistas of the Adriatic Sea.

Upon arriving, visitors are immediately struck by the two monumental Oriental Plane trees flanking the entrance – each over 500 years old, soaring to about 45 meters in height with massive trunks 5 meters in diameter. These plane trees are living monuments (protected by law) and provide dappled shade over the arboretum’s main path. Passing under their enormous canopy, one enters an enchanting world where art and nature intertwine. A short walk leads to the Villa and formal Neptune Fountain: a baroque fountain pool adorned with a sculpture of Neptune (the sea god) and nymphs, built in the 18th century. Water from a natural spring cascades down a mossy grotto wall into the pool, surrounded by lush greenery – a refreshing sight and sound amid the garden. This area, with its trickling water and statues, was famously featured as the Red Keep gardens in the Game of Thrones TV series, showcasing its romantic, otherworldly atmosphere.

Trsteno’s terraced gardens are filled with an eclectic collection of plants gathered over centuries: groves of palm trees, laurels, and olive trees mix with exotic specimens like bougainvillea, eucalyptus, and camphor trees brought by seafaring captains. There is an old Olive Press house, a reminder that this was a working estate. Winding stone staircases and pathways lead through sections of formal flower beds, herb gardens, and an old pavilion belvedere that offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the Adriatic islands and turquoise waters below. Throughout, one encounters marble benches, fragments of classical statues, and a baroque chapel, imparting a sense of faded grandeur and history.

A highlight is the arboretum’s Aqueduct – an impressively preserved late-Renaissance aqueduct that once supplied water to the fountain and gardens. It crosses through the garden on tall arches, adding architectural drama as well as practical heritage. Further down, closer to the shore, the landscape transitions into a natural woodland with walking trails under pine and cypress trees, leading to viewpoints high above the rocky coastline.

Though the arboretum suffered damage during Croatia’s 1990s war and a fire in 2000, restoration efforts have revived much of its beauty. Today it is managed by the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, and open to visitors for a fee. Strolling Trsteno Arboretum’s paths, breathing in the scent of salt air and jasmine, and listening to cicadas sing, one experiences a serene blend of human artistry and Dalmatian nature – truly a hidden paradise echoing with history and legend.